Friday, February 11, 2011

Cost and Calories

CALORIES

I was curious about the amount of calories in the Pane Pugliese, so here are the nutrition facts of Unbleached All Purpose Flour:

Nutrition Facts (Kroger All Purpose Flour)
Serving Size: 1/4 cup

Amount per Serving
Calories 100
Total Carbohydrate 22g
Dietary Fiber 0g
Protein 3g

Depending on the source, it looks like 30g of flour is equal to a 1/4 cup. So if we divide the 625g (flour) by 30 = 20.84 and multiply by 100 calories, the total calories in the loaf are approximately 2084 calories.

Using the Weight Watchers points method (old version), I figure that you need to get 36 slices of bread at about 60 calories per slice. My loaves are 8.5" in diameter, and about 3.5 inches tall. Cut that into 4 quarters, so each quarter needs to be cut into slices of bread to have 1 point per slice. Each slice would be 3.5 inches tall, by 4.25 inches long, by 3/8". Of course, the slices get smaller as you move toward the edge - maybe slice the longer pieces thinner, and the shorter pieces fatter.

Another way of calculating would be to actually weigh your loaf - mine came out to be a little over 2 lbs. Multiply the number of pounds by 454(grams in a pound), and then divide that number by 36 to get the number of grams in each 1 point slice. In my case, 2x454=908/36 = 25 grams per slice.

COST

I use Kroger Unbleached All Purpose Flour that cost $1.98 for a 5lb bag. The price just went up from $1.48 a bag.

There are approximately 454 grams in a pound, so a bag of flour has 5x454 = 2270 grams of flour. If our recipe contains 625 grams of flour, then we get 3.6 loaves from a bag. Rounding that off to 3.5 to account for bench flour, then the cost of a loaf is around $.57, or say 60 cents (add a few cents for yeast) per loaf. Not bad.

You could use King Arthur flour if you want to pay over $5 per bag for the same nutritional values, but that is your choice. I did try a bag once, and had the exact same results in the bread taste, rise, etc.

By the way, I found a 1lb bag of SAF Instant Yeast at Costco Business (not at the regular Costco - they only had active dry yeast) for around $2.50. Using 4 grams of yeast per loaf, that should be over 110 loaves. That calculates out to less than 3 cents per loaf for the cost of yeast.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Sourdough

Here are some linked videos from Breadtopia.com:
Breadtopia

The first video is how to create a starter.


The next one is how to dry the sourdough starter for transport or storage.

I would just add from my own experience that you don't have to put this in the oven, but any wire rack, such as those that you use to cool your bread, will work fine. I left mine out until it was completely dried, and it peeled off of the parchment. I broke it into squares, and then put it into a ziplock bag, and crumbled it up into small pieces.

The next video is how to revive the dried sourdough starter here:


The next video is how to maintain your starter:


Feeding the starter:
According to Peter Reinhart in "Artisan Breads Every Day", you should feed the starter in a 3 to 1 weight ratio, that is 94g of flour to 28g of starter, and the water should be the same percentage as the final dough. In our case, we are using the hydration percentage of 72.5 percent, or X divided by 94 times 100 = 72.5. Then X = approximately 68g of water. That would create a starter that weighs 190g from just one ounce of starter.

Using the starter:
The Fresh Loaf
This post suggest using 10% starter to total flour weight if doing a 12 hour overnight rise.

Currently, the total weight of flour and water combined is 625+452 = 1077g
.10Y+Y+X=1077 or 1.1Y+X=1077
and
100X/Y=72.5 where Y is weight of flour, and X is weight of water

60g starter (around 1/4 cup)
600g flour
435g water
1095g total (pretty close to the goal of 1077)

Using Peter Reinhart's formula, on the morning before creating the dough, take 60g of seed starter, 180g flour, and 131g of water to create the final starter (371g total).

Leave it at room temperature for 8 hours, then remove 60g and added it to the formula above to create dough. (600g flour, 435g water, and 9g of salt). Let this dough sit at room temperature overnight, and bake it in the morning.

The rest of the final starter was placed in the refrigerator for future use.

Peter Reinhart's recipe for San Francisco Sourdough Bread (for two loaves) uses 75% finished starter - so the formula for Pane Pugliese would be 400g flour, 300g starter, and 290g water.

Another way of looking at it comes from another Peter Reinhart book called "The Bread Baker's Apprentice" in which he says to replace the biga with an equal amount (by weight) of starter. In the Pane Pugliese recipe that he offers, this amounts to 105% of the flour.

Using the starter (second opinion):
Sourdough Home
This author suggests using 1 cup of active starter to substitute for 6g of yeast. Since our original Pane Pugliese recipe calls for 4g of yeast, so I used 1 cup of starter.

He also suggests three rules for feeding the starter:
1.Sourdough starter at room temperature must be fed no less than twice a day.
2.Each feeding of the starter should be enough to double its size.
3.Each feeding should be equal amounts of water and flour, by weight.

He goes on to say "An active starter is one that has fed within the past 12 hours, and that is active enough that it was able to double in size after that feeding."

We will need to subtract some flour and some water from the original recipe. He suggests that the starter is about half flour, and half water per cup, and I measured 1 cup of starter to be 220g. That calculates to about 110g each that needs to be subtracted from our original recipe.

625-110=515g flour
452-110=342g water
9g salt
I added 2g of instant yeast, and the bread came out delicious. But it was very slack, and the loaf did not rise much during baking, and could not be formed into much of a loaf.

I am going to try 4g of yeast to see if that will make the dough a little stiffer.

Update: I did try 4g of yeast, and the bread came out excellent, but still not as much rise as I would like. I tried a "proofing" stage for about 2 hours before baking by placing the dough in a 10" springform pan, after doing an envelope fold. I covered the dough with an oiled piece of plastic wrap, but the dough did not rise much. In comparison, I did the same thing (I will write about this on a different page with pictures) with the regular Pane Pugliese dough, and the dough almost doubled in size. I believe that perhaps the sourdough, along with 4g of yeast, may use up all of the available food, and thereby did not rise again. I am going to try this again, but let the dough rise for a few hours in the primary fermentation stage, and then refrigerate it overnight. That should leave some food available for a second rise.

I have been really happy with using this formula for keeping the sourdough well maintained: I started with 240g of starter kept in the refrigerator. On the morning the day before that actually bake, I spoon out 120g of starter into a second container.

To each container, I add 60g of flour and 60g of water. I refrigerate the original container - now it contains 240g of starter that has been fed. This should be good for use for 5-7 days or so.

The second container is allowed to stay at room temperature until I am ready to mix the dough. This starter should double in size in about 4-6 hours, and needs to be used within about 12 hours. This container also contains 240g of starter, which will be about 1 cup in volume when ready for use.

Maintaining Sourdough Starter from King Arthur Flour

Recipe Update:
This is the recipe I used:
1 cup (about 220-240g of starter)
515g flour
342g water (tap temperature)
9g salt
1.5g yeast

Note the two big changes in the recipe - the use of only 1.5g of yeast, and using cool water, instead of warm water.

I let this ferment overnight for 12 hours, and then lined a 8.5" x 2.5" springform with parchment paper, and put a small amount of cornmeal on the parchment. I formed a boule from the dough, and placed it into the parchment, lined the top with a piece of oiled plastic, and covered it with a towel for 2 hours. The picture was taken after the 2 hour rise.



The oven was preheated to 450 degrees (F), along with a pizza stone on the middle rack and a large roasting pan on the bottom rack. About a cup of hot water was added to the roasting pan before baking the dough. A little flour was dusted onto the dough, and the dough was scored with a single razor cut along the center, and the springform pan with the dough was placed in the oven on the pizza stone to bake.

After baking 10 minutes, the pan of water was removed, and the dough continued to bake for about another 15 minutes. I then removed the bread by pulling up on the parchment, and place the parchment containing the dough directly onto the pizza stone. After baking another 5 minutes, I removed the parchment from underneath the dough, and let it continue to bake until the center of the dough reached 205 degrees.




After the bread cooled to room temperature, I cut the loaf, and this is what it looked like. A nice uniform bread, with great flavor - and it makes wonderful toast.

Flavor experiments

I am starting a new phase of experimentation - two actually. I am going to continue to work with the Pane Pugliese, but try to increase the flavor, if possible, by slowing the fermentation.

I have already experimented with refrigeration, and although the flavor was very good, the rise of the loaf was not as good as using no refrigeration.

I have just purchased a copy of Peter Reinhart's book "Artisan Bread Every Day", and he suggests slowing fermentation by using less yeast. I will try that, and report the results here.

He also has a recipe for sourdough starter, and although it requires a little effort in the beginning, it seems the maintenance, care, and feeding is fairly straightforward. And since I will be baking quite often - usually every second day - then feeding a sourdough starter will be little effort. Look for that information on a different post.




Ingredients:
4 cups bread flour (I used 3 1/2 cup white and 1/2 cup wheat)
*Note: you can use All-purpose flour if you want
1/4 tsp yeast (active dry yeast)
2 cups water
1 1/2 tsp salt

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Hydration Percentage + Bakers Formulas

Hydration is the ratio of water (weight in grams) to flour (weight in grams), so the Pane Pugliese recipe described in the blog is 452g of water to 625g flour, which is 452/625x100 = 72.32%

Hydration is a measure of how wet the dough is:
•Stiff & Dry- 58 to 60% water content
•Firm & Tight – 60 to 62%
•Modestly Firm – 62 to 63%
•Malleable – 63 to 64%
•Soft – 64 to 65%
•Slack – 65 to 67%

Peter Reinhart lists these classifications:
•Stiff - 50 to 57% water content (bagel, pretzels)
•Standard - 57 to 65% water content (French and other European style breads)
•Rustic - above 65% water content (ciabatta, pizza, focaccia)

Source: Baker's Percentages and Bread Hydration

Professional bakers express their recipes as formulas. The amount of flour always adds up to 100% and the remaining ingredients are a percentage of the total flour, and it’s always by weight, not volume.

Using the Pane Pugliese recipe:
Flour...625g...100%
Water...452g....72.3%
Salt......9g.....1.5%
Yeast.....4g.....0.64%

Peter Reinhart lists these formulas:
Total Flour Weight = Total Weight / Total Percentage
Total Weight = Ingredient Percentage x Total Flour Weight
Ingredient Percentage = Ingredient Weight / Total Flour Weight x 100

Knowing these formulas allows us to scale recipes up or down according to the size loaf (or loaves) that we are trying to create.

One item that throws off the calculations is the inclusion of pre-ferments such as bigas, poolish, pate fermentee, and sourdough or other starters. I personally think that it is easier to include those in the total percentages.

For example, the original recipe for the Pane Pugliese came from Carol Field's The Italian Baker:
1 1/4 tsp active dry yeast (5g or .50%)
1/4 cup warm water
3 cups water room temperature
200 grams of biga
1000 grams of unbleached AP flour
20 grams of salt (2%)
With water at approximately 230g per cup, the 3.25 cups of water would weigh 747.5g
This would be 74.75% hydration. (note to self: recalc this at 236g per cup)

(here is a nice conversion tool:)
Ingredient Conversion

Then the recipe for 750 grams of biga is:
1/2 tsp active dry yeast (2g or .40%)
1/4 cup warm water (57.5g)
1 1/4 cups + 2 tbsp water room temperature (287.5g+28.5g=316g)
500 grams unbleached AP flour
The total water weight is 373.5g (74.75% - same as the recipe!)
The total ingredient weight is 373.5+500= 873.5
BUT we only need 200g of biga, then
Total Flour Weight = Total Weight / Total Percentage
TFW = 200 / 1.75 (175%) = 114g

Ingredient Weight = Ingredient Percentage x Total Flour Weight
Water = .7475 x 114 = 85g

SOOOoo..
The converted recipe would look like this when you include the flour, water, and yeast from the biga:
Flour 1114g
Water 832g (74.68%)
Salt .. 20g (1.79%)
Yeast .. 7g (.63%)

But this makes 2 large loaves or 3 smaller loaves.
If you set the total flour to 625g, then the recipe easily falls into place.

Here is another source for bakers percentage:
Artisan Bread Baking

Here is some great info on yeast dough:
King Arthur Flour